正午玩物 | 在斋月的摩洛哥，我都吃了什么？

摩洛哥，我都吃了什么？","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,"文 | 暖","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\n"],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"1、白葡萄酒","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"地点：白色卡萨布兰卡","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/TwSnrOofr6o07juL/000001.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"413.094px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"675\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"海上..寺\n"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"一觉醒来，飞机已经降落在阿布扎比机场，这是前往摩洛哥的中转站。机上广播随后响起：“由于阿联酋正值斋月，请旅客们在室外不要喝水、抽烟、进食，遵守当地风俗习惯……” 我愣了一下，一打听才知道，原来从5月15日起..国家进入斋月，到6月15日结束。顿觉中了头彩，来之前光顾着避开高温和雨季，完全忽略了斋月。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"..日出至日落期间禁食禁水，景点缩短开放时间，当地餐厅中午关门，晚上也不卖酒，酒吧关门，街上禁烟禁食禁水，游客同理。当我查完斋月所有注意事项后，憧憬着辗转于卡萨布拉卡各家风情小酒馆的我和朋友不禁面面相觑。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"来接机的司机Hicharm浓眉大眼，微微发福，我小心翼翼地问他：“这边的斋月规矩如何？” ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"“不用担心，你们是游客，不需要遵守我们的规矩。” 他轻松地说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我依旧半信半疑。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/9O9zPljR2acmtxnu/里克咖啡馆1.jpeg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"459px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"3024\"|ori-width:\"4032\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"里克咖啡馆"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"卡萨布兰卡盛名在外，也许没人知道摩洛哥的首都其实是拉巴特。我喜欢这座城市的名字，Ca-sa-blan-ca，“白房子”的意思，以a结尾的每一个音节都饱满而绽放。有了中转站的经历，我们在阿布扎比机场买了一瓶威士忌带在路上，以防真的全程无酒可寻。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"里克咖啡馆是游客打卡胜地，它座落在一个极其普通的街角，虽然建筑外观极力还原电影中的样子，但《卡萨布兰卡》根本未在当地取景，真正的咖啡馆搭建在好莱坞影棚中。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"电影里的咖啡馆实际是个酒馆，歌舞升平，是战时的避难所；而这家更像漂亮的风情餐厅，它没有遵守斋月关门规则。这儿可以用餐，也可以饮酒喝茶，甚至能在室内吸烟，百无禁忌。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"仔细观察来客，开年会的欧洲人占据大长桌，小桌多为亚洲游客，食物算是西餐合格线上。当等待已久的白葡萄酒入喉，我紧绷的情绪才算些许放松下来——并非什么好酒，本地干白，但对于不幸赶上斋月的酒鬼来说，也算是躲进避难所了。服务生点菜的时候还时不时说几句中文。咖啡馆隔壁破旧的修车房与之融为一体，战时的纷争与情事已经过去，留下只言片语和狂欢的游客。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20," "],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20," "],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"2、非洲大排档","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"地点：红色马拉喀什","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20," "],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/HWwA15jBY3Aeq5vh/WechatIMG69.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408.203px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"不眠广场"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"一路南下日照变强，气温升高，三个小时后，当房屋的颜色由白变红，逐渐成排，马拉喀什到了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"车一路行驶，从城郊驶入市中心，依旧是一溜紧闭的店门。司机Hicharm从早晨接我们上车到晌午滴米未进，依旧精神饱满地给我们介绍一路风景：“马拉喀什比起卡萨布兰卡热闹多了，看，这就是最著名的不眠广场。别看现在什么都没有，等天黑了就变了个样子。”时针指向当地时间下午两点十分，连续走了圣罗兰花园和巴伊亚皇宫，我已经饿得不行。在老城门口买了个吞拿鱼三明治充饥，店里人头寥寥， 我边问起店主：“你们吃了没？” 店主笑着摇摇头：“我们要等天黑才能吃东西。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"踩着夕阳，我们走出庭院，路过..寺，灯逐渐亮了起来，一个个标着号码的摊档纷纷铺开，烧烤、坚果、水果、海鲜、塔吉锅、蜗牛、海娜纹身、拖鞋、皮包、灯具、地毯……因为每家拉客的套路都如出一辙：小哥们纷纷唱起了夏奇拉（Shakira）为2010年南非世界杯所唱的主题曲《Waka Waka》的副歌，拉赢了的摊主击掌庆祝。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/Q0HWwyE4Li04VRlW/WechatIMG65.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408.203px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"非洲大排档"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/nL0AhTAhccM8cdzs/WechatIMG68.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408.203px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"非洲大排档"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我们终于被拉客的小哥们说服，放弃了天台晚餐，挤在人群中吃起了非洲大排档。五颜六色的蔬菜、肉类一字排开，夹着青椒片、番茄片的鸡肉串、牛肉串被端上来，搭配酿茄子，小菜是油橄榄，当然还有餐餐不拉的头盘：面饼，价格低廉，口味不凡，和北京胡同里的烤串儿比起来丝毫不逊色。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"右手边很快坐下了一对美国情侣，点了相似的食物。广场人群繁杂，菜上齐之后，一位衣衫褴褛的乞丐路过，直接伸手拿起他们碟子里的油橄榄吃了起来。原来这才是天下免费的“共享晚餐”，也是天降野生的“满汉全席”。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"吃完上二楼露台，看着与明信片中相似的广场全景，夜风渐凉。回去的路上，教徒们开始诵经，一遍又一遍。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n\n","7:3"],[20,"3、薄荷茶","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"地点：..撒哈拉","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/KxcgJYcrSQshDtay/撒哈拉.jpeg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"403px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1079\"|ori-width:\"1638\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"撒哈拉沙漠"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"撒哈拉有太多的故事：三毛的爱情，小王子的童话……真的来到这里，除了灼烧感和荒芜感，脑中竟一片空白，像极了快饮一杯威士忌后的大脑。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我们从瓦尔扎扎特出发，终于在下午四点半赶到了梅尔祖卡。等待其他驼队成员到来一同进沙漠的同时，驿站的领队给我们斟上了薄荷茶。薄荷茶分加糖和无糖，饮用之前店家都会询问客人的嗜好。我喝过最好喝的薄荷茶是在耶路撒冷，野生的薄荷叶在冷水中张牙舞爪，入喉有辛辣的清凉，也有沁脾的爽快。不像在摩洛哥，都是热泡。周遭温度本就偏高，快落山的太阳照在皮肤上有微辣的灼烧感，薄荷叶在滚烫的沸水中像蔫了的芭蕉，还未出征就泄了气。只好依靠其中的糖分给我一些能量。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"upload-placeholder-image":true}],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"喝完第三杯薄荷茶，终于等齐了深入腹地的同伴们。坐在骆驼上慢慢地晃悠，在一个沙丘停下，等待日暮降临。我与我的骆驼对视，它的眼中不知为何总有溢满泪水之感，它默默趴下，沉默不语。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/uESXi6zZi6kvXM3g/篝火晚会.jpeg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"459px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"3024\"|ori-width:\"4032\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"篝火晚会"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"沙漠的日头落得很快，起风了，一行人向营地走去。当我们掏出随身携带的威士忌，周围的队友纷纷露出羡慕的神情，最让人惊喜的是营地竟然有冰块。晚餐的沙拉并无滋味，鸡肉柴了，但配上加冰威士忌，一切不适都消失不见了。冰块延缓了酒精的作用，几杯下肚，才慢慢有了感觉，暮色下的沙漠在篝火的照耀下变得柔软，端着酒杯坐下，沙子汇聚成一张无限伸展的沙发。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"此刻我竟想念日光下蔫了的薄荷叶，刚好下酒。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n","7:3"],[20,"4、啤酒","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"地点：迷城菲斯","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/1JpUUof4TUAKtytq/fes_restaurant_cafe.jpeg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"459px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"3024\"|ori-width:\"4032\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"Fes Restaurant Cafe","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"比起马拉喀什的麦地那（老城），菲斯老城是一座更大的迷宫。小猫们在拱门和暗巷间乱窜，偶尔安静趴着，有一种在给我们带路的假象。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"差点错过计划用餐的餐馆，我们按照地标绕了回来，两位坐在地上的欧洲旅客问我们：“你们是在找 Fes Restaurant Cafe吗？” ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我点了点头。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"“我们也是，八点开门，先等会吧。” ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我一看门上的字符，竟然还有另外一个名字，而且比tripadvisor上的更大，难怪容易错过。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"过了五分钟，又有一对操西班牙口音的情侣走了过来，看着门上的字眼想确认些什么。我们直接告诉他：“等一会吧，就是这。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"没错，又是斋月，人群四面八方，三三两两，就蹲坐在门口等待着这家评分颇高的法餐厅开门营业，想必是大家都已经厌倦了一路本地出品的塔吉锅（","27:\"12\""],[20," "],[20,"tagine）和小米饭（couscous）。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"塔吉锅产于摩洛哥，高盖帽，陶土材料制成，因为透气不透水，加上三角圆锥的造型使得蒸气循环上升，能够最大限度地减少水分丧失。在烹饪过程中只需少量水，水汽均匀地滴落在食材上，最大程度地保持食物的原汁原味和营养；牛肉、鸡肉、鱼，配上茄子、土豆等蔬菜，构成了当地主食，再配以小米饭，就是“北非黄焖鸡米饭”了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"我们一路的正餐都几乎只能在这两样食物中选择，再无花样。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"过了大约半小时，门终于缓缓打开，老板向大家稍稍表示歉意：“各位久等了。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/h31ZcQIRuN0s5DJw/菲斯啤酒.jpeg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"816px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1440\"|ori-width:\"1080\""],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"在Fes Restaurant Cafe喝到的两种啤酒","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"经过一段石梯，一大片高耸入天的绿植，一进门就看到法餐厅熟悉的黑板菜单和酒单。这一路只喝葡萄酒和自带威士忌，还没好好尝尝当地的啤酒。我们先要了两瓶：一瓶“卡萨布兰卡”，一瓶梅克内斯（菲斯附近的另一古城）产的啤酒，卡萨还算是及格的白啤，另一瓶只能说和燕京的味道差不多。只不过胜在环境，和在斋月里畅快喝酒的感觉罢了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"吃过晚饭，在街上偶然发现了一个书摊，摊主热情地推荐：“这几本书非常棒，作者拿过2016年的法国龚古尔文学奖。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"他指着摆在外侧显著位置的几本书，都来自于法籍摩洛哥女作家蕾拉·斯利马尼(Leïla Slimani)。没看见《温柔之歌》（Chanson douce），我带走了去年出版的《性与谎言：摩洛哥的性生活》（Sexe et mensonges : La vie sexuelle au Maroc），在她的故土，性依旧被作为一种商品交易，作者采访了多位女性，讲述她们的性经历。在这里，一切婚外性行为都是不合法的，同性恋和妓女也一样。年轻女性只能拥有两种身份：处女或人妻。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"等我拆开书的塑封，竟然发现这是一本盗版书，另外一本..语版的《小王子》也是。字迹倾斜，纸张粗糙——原来非洲也有盗版书啊。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"菲斯的薄荷茶倒是物超所值，与前几站一小杯不能续水的待遇比，这里的茶换成了长形高杯，能看见多片薄荷叶盛在其中，价格不变，长时间步行坐下来喝上一杯，倒也真能抵上冰镇啤酒的效果。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n\n","7:3"],[20,"5、塔吉锅","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"地点：蓝色舍夫沙万 ","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\n","7:3"],[20,"盘山，多云，一片蓝白色的房子停在半山腰，是童话般的舍夫沙万，它比我想象中更小，更静。在这里居住的村民几乎都是身穿长袍的柏柏尔人，又以老人和孩子居多，当然，猫依旧是抢眼的主角。真的仿佛置身《一千零一夜》里，虽然接近夏日，人们依旧用尖帽长袍将自己包裹起来。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/QJkGjlrIxuwrkJja/000064.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"413.094px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"675\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"舍夫沙万的蓝，由深入浅，海蓝，天蓝，宝石蓝，雾霾蓝，马卡龙蓝……比圣托里尼岛更加蓝得纯粹。这里的门也千奇百怪，垂下的手，黑色的图钉，弧形，圆形，方形，平行线，三角形……好似拥有任意门， 往右一个转弯，往上一段石阶，都能通往不同的时空。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我们找了家中餐馆想吃点辣的，在室外露天座坐下，顺便掏出还剩大半瓶的威士忌，谁知还是被中国老板提醒拒绝了：“倒不是因为不能自带酒水，实在是面对着..寺喝酒，不太合适。” 过了一会，当地服务生拿了两只餐巾纸裹着的玻璃杯出来：“你们用这个喝吧，没事。” 我们哈哈大笑，这个摩洛哥小伙太机智了，挡起来就看不出里面是什么了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/JMiPSkOHi9kCiquN/WechatIMG63.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408.812px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"668\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"离开前最后一顿，我们别无选择，还是只有塔吉锅。没想到竟然吃到了此程测评第一的梅子牛肉塔吉锅。梅子的清甜中和了牛肉的厚重，味道令人迷醉。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"6、生蚝","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"地点：卡萨布兰卡","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/rYiL0swqnYQViQmc/生蚝.jpeg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"411px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"626\"|ori-width:\"932\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"卡萨布兰卡的一家法式餐馆。"],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"十天之后，我们在傍晚回到了起点卡萨布兰卡。天色未暗，房屋外墙上的涂鸦让这座城市有了一些色彩。我们拼了一辆出租车穿越老城小巷，前往一家小有名气的法餐馆。客人络绎不绝，都在等待日落开斋后上工的厨师为大家送上新鲜的生蚝。老板不停道歉解释，由于斋月时期，厨房出餐比较慢。让人最欣慰的，该是离开前的最后一餐，酒还是准时倒上了，生蚝的味道也不错，而且足够便宜。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n","7:3"],[20,"我们最终也没有喝完那瓶威士忌，早早睡去。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"如果有一天还有机会重返北非，我大概只想在舍夫沙万的民宿里住上一周，无需戒备，不用颠簸，无所事事，弹琴，逗猫，刷墙，晒太阳，喝薄荷茶，吃梅子牛肉塔吉锅，看日出日落。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"最重要的，是不再选在斋月里来。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n"],[20,"—— 完 ——","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,"本文图片均由作者提供。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"相关阅读：","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,"..散步记","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20," \n"]]">

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