正午 | 伊塞克湖,寻找苏联时代的回声

苏联时代的度假胜地。有不少怀旧的前苏联人仍来这里避暑,但许多建筑已经荒废。作家刘子超在这里停留,与当地人交谈,在萧瑟的生活中,寻找苏联时代的回声。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"微信摘要:吉尔吉斯的伊塞克湖,曾经是苏联时代的度假胜地。作家刘子超在这里停留,与当地人交谈,在萧瑟的生活中,寻找苏联时代的回声。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"微信导语:\t我感到,这家疗养院的一切都定格在了苏联时代,在平行世界中兀自运行不止。 ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/udQFcMkyBc4BdV6Y/06.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"572.828px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"936\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/hky66NNMVhANmFpi/title.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"349.438px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"571\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n\n\n","7:1"],[20,"伊塞克湖,寻找苏联时代的回声","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,"文 | 刘子超","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"1","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我要去的小镇叫乔尔蓬阿塔(Cholpon-Ata),它是伊塞克湖北岸最大的城镇,然而看上去十分荒凉。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"吉尔吉斯的伊塞克湖是苏联时代的度假胜地,至今仍有不少怀旧的前苏联人来这里避暑。在夏季最热的月份,这里常常一房难求。很多时候,度假客们只能寄希望于从站在村口的巴布什卡那里租赁民房。然而,我发现,这里几乎没有真正的旅游业,酒店管理也是一门方兴未艾的事业。西方的旅行指南往往把乔尔蓬阿塔定性为“不来也不会遗憾”的地方。在这里的几天里,我的确没看到一个前苏联之外的游客。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"几年前,我采访过一个中国的地产大亨。他以极限登山和浪漫诗情闻名于地产界。他当时告诉我,他曾考虑购买伊塞克湖畔的大片土地,开发成面向中国游客的豪华度假区。为此,他邀请了不少吉尔吉斯政要来北京商谈,费用由他买单。政要们全都安排住进北京的五星级酒店。他后来发现,房间里的各种酒精饮料很快被一扫而光,每天要补充数次,导致酒水的消费远高于房费本身。最终,这位地产大亨放弃了开发伊塞克湖的意向。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"小巴把我扔在一尊银色的列宁像下。四周散落着松树,根部翻出的泥土,像开裂的伤口。列宁像背后是一片铺着灰色镀锌板的平房,房顶插着卫星电视接收器。作为巨大背景的阿拉套天山,褶皱清晰可见,峰顶笼罩在一片不祥的乌云中。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我在镇上一家临湖的旅馆投宿。旅馆是两层小楼,有红色瓦片搭盖的斜屋顶。从旅馆的房间里看不到湖和山,只能看到庭院的景象。庭院中央是一片种满郁金香的花圃,旁边有两把刷过蓝色油漆的长凳,庭院深处还有三座带顶棚的木榻,铺着游牧民族的坐毯,作为住店客人的餐桌。老板是一个光头的吉尔吉斯男人,始终斜挎着运动小包。我从他那里买了一瓶2升的冰镇啤酒,他把钱塞到了小包里。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"午后的阳光很强烈,我带上浴巾,穿过一片晾晒着衣服的菜园,向着湖边走去。在旅馆的地图上,菜园的位置被标记为天文观测站。显然,那是苏联时代的事了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"伊塞克湖就在那儿,在阳光下轻轻摇晃着,像大海一样浩渺。湖岸上铺着细软的沙子,目力所及处是白雪覆盖的天山,好像直接从深蓝色的水面上升起来的。湖上有座船屋,周围的湖水泛着涟漪。我踩着一块木板走到船上,但这里没人。一个在岸边晃荡的小男孩似乎跟这里有点关系,我让他去找管事的人。他用俄语大喊了一声,给人的感觉好像是船屋失火了。一个胖胖的女人急匆匆地走了出来,手在围裙上擦了擦,有点异样地看着我。我问她这里是餐厅还是酒吧——无论哪种,我都打算坐一会儿。胖胖的女人说,这里是桑拿,下午5点才开始营业。我问了一下价格。一小时人民币200快。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/GIMd0H0qW5sWMrdi/银色列宁像.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"340.875px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"557\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n银色的列宁像\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/AimMbvi3cw0JNlUa/带白色毡帽的吉尔吉斯人.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"477.969px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"781\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n戴白毡帽的吉尔吉斯人\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/KGWSyQSyytEfIaTX/伊塞克湖畔的游客.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"345.766px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"565\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n伊塞克湖边的游客\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/rEN4c5rd2vcbioc5/伊塞克湖熏鱼干.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"345.766px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"565\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n伊塞克湖熏鱼干\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/9mQAPpBQLKoFaXXE/伊塞克湖上的桑拿屋.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408.203px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n伊塞克湖边的桑拿屋\n\n"],[20,"我回到沙滩上,准备先找个凉快的地方坐下。这时,两个身穿比基尼的女人叫住了我。她们正躺在旁边的沙滩上,身下铺着粉色条纹的浴巾。两人都戴着墨镜,一个红发,一个黑发。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“你,中国人?过来!过来!”红发的女人拍着身边的空位。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"   ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20," “你在跟我说话?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"   ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20," “对,对,过来!过来!”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我走过去,坐下来。她们好像没料到我真会过来,喜出望外地挪动屁股,给我更多的空间,然后摘下墨镜,上下打量我。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"浴巾上有沙粒和松枝,还有两个喝空的啤酒瓶和一小瓶同样喝空的白兰地——“吉尔吉斯斯坦牌”。我怀疑她俩的热情与这些空瓶不无关系。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"借助破碎的英语和俄语,我得知红发的叫娜迪亚,黑发的叫达莎。她们都是出生在乔尔蓬阿塔的俄罗斯人。苏联解体时,两人刚上小学,是同班同学。如今,娜迪亚在镇上卖化妆品,达莎在附近的军用机场上班。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我问她们祖上是从俄国哪里来的。她们要么没听懂我的问题,要么不知道答案,只是反复对我强调,她们就是乔尔蓬阿塔人——在这里出生,在这里长大。不过,年轻时,她们都去俄罗斯打过工,在同一家餐馆当服务员。她们用了“年轻时”这个词,意指那是很多年前的事了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我问她们去的是哪座城市。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“新西伯利亚。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我也去过。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“是吗?”她们兴致陡增,仿佛在闭塞的乔尔蓬阿塔,这点共同之处非同小可,足以令我们的关系更进一步。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“呲”地一声,娜迪亚拧开了我带来的啤酒。她用一次性塑料杯为我倒了一杯,然后给自己也倒上。接着,她们跟我聊起新西伯利亚,是那种虽然身处小地方,但是见过大世面的口气。我猜她们在新西伯利亚可能过得并不好。当服务员本来就是苦差事,而且新西伯利亚比乔尔蓬阿塔冷得多,冬天漫长到令人绝望。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"她们问我,在新西伯利亚时住在哪里。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我像打捞沉船一样,仔细打捞着记忆:“好像是列宁大街。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们打工的餐厅就在列宁大街!”达莎高兴地惊呼起来。然后她们朝我举起了酒杯。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"   ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“既然你俩是俄罗斯人,为什么不留在新西伯利亚呢?”我问。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们是俄罗斯人,但我们没有俄罗斯国籍。”娜迪亚说,“我们的护照是吉尔吉斯的。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“新西伯利亚的房租太贵,后来我们就回来了。”达莎说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"她们告诉我,苏联解体后,这里的俄罗斯人大部分回了俄罗斯,还有一部分搬到了比什凯克。如今,整个伊塞克湖地区只剩下不到2000个俄罗斯人了。说这话时,她们的口气多少有点奇怪。给我的感觉是,虽然她们出生在这里,却不属于这里,而且阴差阳错地滞留了下来。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我问她们有没有结婚。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"达莎没有结婚。娜迪亚早就离婚了,独自抚养一个13岁大的儿子。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“他是特别棒的男子汉,”娜迪亚把这句话重复了三遍,是那种让我务必相信的口吻。能看出,作为一个“滞留”下来的俄罗斯人,儿子是她唯一的希望。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"为了证明儿子的确是很棒的男子汉,娜迪亚拿出手机,给我看他的照片。一张照片里,虎头虎脑的儿子正荡舟在伊塞克湖上;另一张照片里,他拿着鱼竿,钓起了一条大鱼。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"娜迪亚说,她想让儿子去俄罗斯参军,然后她卖掉这里的房子,跟着儿子搬回去。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“搬到哪里?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“任何地方都行。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我问这里的房子能卖多少钱。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"她说了一个数字。相当于人民币3万块。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"这时,达莎摘下了墨镜。我发现她其实精心化过妆。睫毛烫过,涂了睫毛膏,给人一种眼泪随时可能夺眶而出的感觉。她比娜迪亚显得年轻,妆容也更时尚。她为什么没有结婚?","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"谈起这里的男人,她们的语气顿时充满鄙夷。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“既粗野又俗气。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“个个都是酒鬼。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"最后她们说:“我们喜欢外国人。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“有外国人来这里吗?”我问。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“很少。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"一阵风吹过湖面,卷来一片褐色的积雨云。一瞬间,没有太多铺垫,雨点就从天而降,湖面上飘起一种近似于口哨的声音。娜迪亚和达莎披上浴巾,招呼我搬家。我们拿起地上的家当,一起搬到一棵大松树下。天上仍有太阳,雨点在阳光下滴滴分明。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"现在,我坐在了两个身穿比基尼的俄国女人中间,她们轮流为我倒酒,自己也一杯一杯地干掉。虽然她们嫌弃这里的男人都是酒鬼,可她们自己好像也挺能喝。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“你喝起酒来就像俄国人。”娜迪亚不可思议地看着我,“我想知道,你的教养是不是像欧洲人?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我的教养像中国人。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“中国人从来不喝醉。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“是吗?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们这么听说的。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“中国男人为什么都戴眼镜?”达莎问。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“因为他们工作太辛苦。”我说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“这里的男人不工作,只会喝伏特加。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“喝完伏特加就打老婆。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“中国男人会打老婆吗?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“不会。”我说,“一般不会。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"她们点点头:“我们喜欢中国人。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"一瓶2升的啤酒很快喝完了,我觉得到了告辞的时候。不过娜迪亚表示,我们应该换一个地方继续。小镇上有一家专门吃伊塞克湖鱼的餐厅,味道棒极了。作为游客,我难道不应该去尝尝?","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"见我一脸犹豫,娜迪亚又说:“我们都是正经人家的姑娘,我们不要钱。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我看着她们抖落浴巾上的沙子和松枝,塞进鼓鼓囊囊的背包。娜迪亚套上一件奶油色帽衫,达莎穿上一件白色T恤,上面印着“我爱布鲁克林”。我们把酒瓶扔进垃圾桶,沿着一条土路,穿过一片平房。雨已经停了,阳光照着洗刷一新的铁皮门,空气中泛着泥土的气息。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我们走到公路上,达莎招手拦车。一辆..淘汰的二手皇冠停了下来。不是出租车,是顺便赚点钱的黑车。司机是一个年轻的吉尔吉斯男人,达莎用俄语跟他说:“去镇上的那家鱼餐厅。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我们掠过一片荒地,掠过银色的列宁像。娜迪亚和达莎在后面商量着什么,然后我感到后背被戳了一下。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们想先回家换一下泳衣。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“请便。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"在空旷的公路上,皇冠来了个故作潇洒的急转身,就像三流警匪片里那样,轮胎发出“吱吱”的摩擦声。窗外的景色倒带般地重现。我们又一次掠过银色的列宁像和荒地,然后越开越远,越开越偏。我有点警觉地看着皇冠车拐进一个破败的苏联小区。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"那里有两栋灰色的筒子楼,墙皮已经开裂。前面有一个小小的花坛,但明显只是摆设。花坛的水泥台碎了,里面长满杂草。花坛旁边还有一个“儿童游乐园”:掉漆的铁滑梯、简易的跷跷板。除此之外,周围空空荡荡。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"娜迪亚和达莎让我在车里稍坐,说她们去去就回。她们下了车,朝着一个歪歪扭扭的单元门走去。黄昏在不知不觉中降临了,花坛和滑梯投下长长的阴影,周围有一种被遗弃的感觉。娜迪亚和达莎说的没错:她们“滞留”在了这里。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"看着她们的背影,年轻的吉尔吉斯司机突然用英语对我说:“你带她们吃点好的,她们什么都肯干。” ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我一愣,以为自己听错了。“你说什么?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"他微笑着,做了个下流手势。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“多少钱?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“用不着给钱。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“哦,”我说,“可我没有那方面的想法。”然后为了不显得太过一本正经,又加了一句,“她们不是我的菜。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“嗯,两个老女人,”司机很理解似地点点头,“那个黑发的好像还行。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我干燥地笑了一声。司机“啪”地拧开车灯,仪表盘的白光突然映在他的侧脸上。他不耐烦地看了一下手机,放下车窗。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"2","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"终于,娜迪亚和达莎从单元门里走了出来,好像话剧幕间休息后再度登场的演员,带着一脸兴奋。她们重新化了妆,有一种大都市里出门过夜生活的隆重感。路上,司机和她们若无其事地聊天,而她们当然不知道司机跟我说了什么。我们再次驶过荒地,列宁像,然后经过一座纪念卫国战争的公园。镇上路灯昏黄,一切都已经融入低垂的暮色。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"镇中心十分萧条,要去的餐厅有一种乡村客栈的味道。院里的葡萄架上坠着五颜六色的小灯泡,闪烁着。一个长得像中国人的吉尔吉斯女招待,把我们引上二楼的露台。菜单照例只有俄文,我就让娜迪亚和达莎点菜。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“吉尔吉斯斯坦牌的白兰地,非常好。”娜迪亚说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“比伏特加还好?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“伏特加不好,白兰地好。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我说好。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"娜迪亚高兴地点了一壶白兰地。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们都是正经人家的姑娘,不是为了钱。”她说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"账单过来后,我买了单。看到我买单,她们似乎放下心来。过了会儿,娜迪亚又把长得像中国人的吉尔吉斯女招待叫过来,语速飞快地“交代”了半天,女招待心领神会地点着头。我们又点了一轮菜,加了三壶白兰地。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"院子里,一个小型乐队开始演奏俄罗斯的流行歌曲。达莎让我点首歌,我想了想说,柳拜(Lube)。很快,《轻轻呼唤我的名字》(Позови меня тихо по имени)响了起来。小镇沉浸在一片黑暗中,山峰的背影沉默而巨大。这首歌原本是写给卫国战争中死去的无名战士,此刻听起来却如同乔尔蓬阿塔的挽歌。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"娜迪亚和达莎的脸上带着醉意。她们说,这是镇上最好的餐厅,但她们已经很久没来了。苏联时代,这里有很多度假的外国人,现在没人来了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“没有外国人,没有中国人,只有吉尔吉斯人。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“俄罗斯人呢?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们不喜欢俄罗斯人,”娜迪亚做了个手势,“那些人鼻孔朝天(瞧不起人)。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我暗自想:她们“滞留”在了这里。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"此时,酒足饭饱的食客们开始三三两两地走到庭院里,随着音乐扭动腰肢。饭点一过,这家餐厅就变身为了舞厅。《Papito Chocolata》响了起来。这是一首罗马尼亚女歌手唱的西班牙语歌,却莫名地流行于整个中亚。我在街上、车上、餐馆里不止一次地听到过。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"半醉的娜迪亚和达莎在我面前跳起舞来,不仅动作投入,还含情脉脉地对我唱着:“宝贝,宝贝,宝贝,把你的灵魂交给我!”仿佛有一台摄影机正对着她们,而她们是真正的明星。然而白兰地没让我喝醉,反而更清醒地意识到自己身在何处。我多少体会到一丝荒谬。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"像中国人的吉尔吉斯女招待走过来,把账单递给我。我看了一眼:一个很大的数字——有点过大了。我突然想起刚才娜迪亚和女招待的一番“交代”。那些当时不甚明了的俄语单词,现在逐渐串了起来:这是一个局,她俩还是决定从我身上捞一笔——虽然也就是200块钱,还要和吉尔吉斯女招待分。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我并没有生气,反而有一种水落石出的轻松感。等娜迪亚和达莎重新坐下来,我告诉她们账单有问题。是吗?她们看了一眼,说没问题。我要来一支笔,把不该付账的部分圈了出来。她们大概也奇怪,原来我能看懂账单上的俄文。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"出了餐厅,我们走在黑乎乎的小镇上,两侧是伞一样的白杨树。娜迪亚说:“再给我们买两瓶啤酒。”在一个小超市里,她们每人拿了两瓶百威,终于感到不虚此行。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们喜欢中国男人!”她们醉着说,“我们不为了钱。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我拦下一辆黑车,看她们坐进去。司机等着我也上来。我对他挥了下手说:“你们先走。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"3","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"离开乔尔蓬阿塔,我去天山深处徒步了几日。等我一身疲惫地回到人间,我打听到伊塞克湖南岸有一家苏联时代的疗养院。疗养院没有正式名字,当地人笼统称之为“军事疗养院”。第一位进入太空的宇航员尤里·加加林(Yuri Gagarin),从太空返回地球后,在那里疗养过数月。我决定去那里休息几天,缓解疲劳。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"小巴把我扔在塔姆加(Tamga)的镇中心。白晃晃的日光下,这里宛如马尔克斯笔下的星期二午后的小镇:无精打采的商店、破败的苏联筒子楼。我沿着一条破碎的柏油路,走到小镇的边缘地带——疗养院就在这里。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"初看上去,疗养院像个家属大院,没有任何标识。蓝色的铁门旁有一间传达室,窗台上养着几盆鲜花。我小心翼翼地敲了敲窗户,一个正在看报的大妈抬起头,又低下一去点,从老花镜上方看了看我。她摇晃着身子从传达室里走出来。我问她这里是不是军事疗养院。她说没错。于是我拖着行李往里走。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"道路两侧种着高高的杨树,松柏掩映的小花园里,有一尊苏联军官的雕像。走在林荫道上,很像走在大学校园里,只是没有校园那么热闹。我走了一段,依然没看到办理入住的地方。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"一辆丰田帕杰罗开过来,司机摇下玻璃问我是否需要帮助。从车牌看,他是从哈萨克斯坦开过来的,车上还坐着一个金发的俄罗斯姑娘。他告诉我,往前走,再向左转,就是办理入住的地方。我向他表示感谢。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"那栋房子看起来像是1970年代的大学宿舍楼,没有前台,只有宿管楼长的办公室。楼长是一个穿着白大褂的吉尔吉斯大妈,戴着头巾,鹰钩鼻,看上去倒是颇为和善。她打开一个大本子,让我登记,然后又把我的名字写在一块黑板上。我在这里住两晚,房费每晚100块,还包含三餐——苏联时代的价格。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"登记完毕,楼长带我爬到四楼,穿过一道长长的走廊。走廊中间铺着狭长的地毯,但空荡荡的,又没有开灯,好像整层只有我一人居住。房间相当斯巴达风格,只有两张单人床和一张写字台。椅子倒扣在写字台的桌面上,亦如暑假里的教室。墙上铺着绘有百合花的淡绿色壁纸,窗户足有一面墙那么宽。透过窗玻璃,可以看到风中抖动的杨树叶和远方的伊塞克湖。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我问楼长洗手间在哪里。她指着走廊告诉我,厕所在这层走廊的尽头,而淋浴房在下一层——这更让我想到了大学宿舍。楼长走后,我推开窗户,让湖上的凉风吹进来。一只松鼠从窗台上跑过去,跳到对面的杨树上。蓝色的伊塞克湖像一片静静的大海。我开灯试了试,不出所料,灯泡是坏的。收拾停当后,我就下楼去找楼长报修。楼长拿起办公桌上的电话——那是一台古老的拨盘电话——拨了个号码,然后告诉我电工师傅一会儿就来。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“坐!坐!”她指着墙边的老式沙发说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我在沙发上坐下来,可是等了半小时也没有师傅出现。抬头一看,连楼长也已经不知去向。我找了一圈,没看到人影。于是,我走出公寓楼,四处转悠。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我发现,这样的公寓楼附近有好几座,风格略有不同,但都是四层楼高。有的阳台上晾着衣服,显然是自己手洗的——这地方想必没有客房服务。道路的尽头有一座半荒废状态的体育馆,周围乱生着杂草。体育馆当年应该是一个气派的建筑,依旧保留着苏联风格的巨型浮雕,以半抽象的形式,描绘了为国争光的体育健儿。从建筑的大小来看,里面应该包含了游泳馆、羽毛球馆和篮球馆,只是如今却任其荒废在那里。就像曾经风光无限的商界精英,不幸老后破产,晚景凄凉。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我正在暗自感叹,突然听到远处有人喊我:“尿!尿!(你好!你好!)”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"原来是楼长和电工师傅出来找我了。我看到他们站在公寓楼右侧的十字路口,正向我挥手致意。我快步走过去,电工师傅兴奋地和我握了握手。他穿着灰色工装背带裤,带一顶卡其色鸭舌帽,留着两撇小胡子,简直就是从勃列日涅夫时代的苏联电影中走出来的。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"上楼时,我和电工师傅简单地聊了两句。他对我格外热情,表示还没见过中国人来这里。进门后,他拧下旧灯泡,换上新灯泡,然后“啪”地一声按下开关——灯泡亮了。我们又亲切地握了一番手,电工师傅这才哼着小曲,下楼去了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我原以为这里没什么人气,没想到人们只是去伊塞克湖游泳了(每天有定时往返的班车)。现在,穿着泳衣,扛着泳圈的人们,开始陆续回到公寓。一群十来岁的男孩挤在大厅里看电视,吃雪糕;一个穿着黑色连体泳衣的俄国大妈,海豹一样地站到体重秤上;二层全是叶卡捷琳堡柔道学校的小学生,而教练是一个满脸胡茬的高加索男人,他不时大声呵斥着那些在走廊上打闹的孩子。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/CEab5PLzvOglUxC8/看电视的楼长.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"367.797px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"601\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n看电视的楼长\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/JCVYTtfC8f8AXBxH/看比赛的俄罗斯男孩.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"332.312px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"543\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n看比赛的俄罗斯男孩\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/BIu2g3f0vKIJXvse/疗养的孩子.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"413.094px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"675\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n疗养的孩子\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/yFN5TRbIQnUQPqOg/柔道学校的孩子.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"348.828px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"570\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"柔道学校的孩子","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"在一楼大厅里,我遇见了疗养院的院长。他是吉尔吉斯人,40来岁,光头,穿着牛仔裤和棉布夹克衫。我在登记入住时见过他。他走过来,问我住得可好。我说,相当不错。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“听说尤里·加加林在这里住过?”我问。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“是的,很多苏联宇航员、作家都在这里疗养过。”院长开始自豪地掰着手指头,说出那些苏联时代大名鼎鼎的名字,就像在一片无人问津的海滩上,捡起那些漂亮的贝壳。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"院长告诉我,苏联时代疗养院遍布各地——从远东到黑海,从中亚到高加索。大体来说,疗养院的宗旨是让人们在一个气候温暖的地方,过一段舒适的日子。舒适性是建立在规律性上的。比如,进入疗养院后,吃饭、运动、治疗(“我们有很多特色项目,比如按摩、电击等”)都有固定的时间。一旦住进这里,你就必须按照这个时间表作息。此外,疗养院的收费并不昂贵。在苏联时代(“包括今天”),这是普通工人阶级也能负担得起的享受。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“人们习惯每年夏天来疗养院住上一段时间,这是我们的传统。”院长说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我在谷歌地图上没有看到这家疗养院,人们是怎么找到这里的?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“这是一家历史悠久的疗养院了,人人都知道。”院长回答,“我们还有一个小博物馆,我带你去看看!”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我们避开游泳归来的人流,沿着林荫路,穿过一个小公园,来到一座小礼堂前。礼堂的一层是剧场,二层是一个空旷的大厅,镶有社会主义风格的壁画。院长说,苏联时代,这里是举办舞会的地方。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"博物馆就位于舞厅隔壁,上着锁。院长打电话叫人开了门。橱窗里尘封着疗养院的历史:它建于“二战”结束后不久,修建者是..关东军的战俘。在荒僻的伊塞克湖畔,战俘们清理出土地,一砖一瓦地建起这座疗养院。我想起塔什干的纳沃伊芭蕾歌剧院也是..战俘修建的。在那里,我还看过一场柴可夫斯基的《胡桃夹子》。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"橱窗里有..战俘的黑白照片,也有苏联解体后他们再次回到这里的彩色留影。两组照片之间相隔将近半个世纪,仿佛时光一闪而过,省略了过程。年轻的战俘变成了耄耋老人,而当年俘虏他们的帝国也已经化为碎片。橱窗里还有一本日文书——《..战俘的足迹》。作者探访了那些..战俘所修的建筑:它们遍布在苏联帝国的各个角落。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"在疗养院,每顿饭的就餐时间是固定的,且只有一个小时。从礼堂出来,人们正纷纷走向餐厅。餐厅里坐满等待开饭的人,四人一桌,落单的会被安排与其他人拼桌。枝形吊灯洒下..光晕,透过白色的薄纱窗帘,可以看到外面摇曳的树影。我感到一种苏联时代的梦幻。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"这里与其说是餐厅,毋宁说更接近于食堂。既不是自助餐,也不能单点,更没有酒水。所有人的餐食都是一样的,就像那些服务员脸上的表情,具有社会主义的统一与公平。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我与一对阿拉木图来的情侣一桌。男孩很瘦,有长长的睫毛,脸上稚气未脱。女孩微胖,正处在留长发的尴尬阶段。她告诉我,父母年轻时经常来这里,如今轮到了他们。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"晚餐只有土豆酸黄瓜汤、加了芝士的意面和两块小圆面包。哈萨克情侣吃了两口就不动了,大概觉得味道不好。我倒是都吃完了,最后只剩下小圆面包。我猜那可能是甜点。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我拿起一个小圆面包,掰开。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“没馅儿,”哈萨克女孩说,脸上带着一丝凄楚的微笑。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我点点头,但还是把面包塞进嘴里。“这里晚上一般做什么?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“在房间里喝伏特加,”女孩说,“这是俄国人的传统。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"那天晚上,我躺在床上喝啤酒,看契诃夫的《第六病室》。夜色中的伊塞克湖像一块深蓝色的布。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/40BbeaEOwIA1jtqj/疗养院大厅.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"334.141px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"546\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n疗养院的大厅\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/dl559KhOBBAGYNok/疗养院走廊.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"329.25px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"538\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n疗养院的走廊\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/1uXVhNsXG3MD77v6/疗养院房间.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"323.125px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"528\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n疗养院的房间\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"https://images-cdn.shimo.im/8vy2OXcBHpUYdKPH/疗养院食堂.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408.203px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n疗养院的食堂\n\n"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"4","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\t ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我被一只蜜蜂吵醒时,天已经大亮。蜜蜂是被墙纸上的百合花吸引来的,正一个劲儿往墙上撞。餐厅里,那些昨夜痛饮伏特加的男人没有出现。来吃早餐的多为上了年纪的女人。她们互相攀谈着,很多就是在这里刚刚相识。哈萨克情侣没来,也许他们昨晚喝多了。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"早餐后,一个亚洲脸的女人走上来,向我问好。她和丈夫、儿子一起来这里度假。她说她昨天就注意到了我,一直在猜测我从哪里来,现在终于忍不住上来求证。我很快发现,这种好奇心是职业性的。她告诉我,她叫阿谢丽,职业是塔罗牌算命师。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"她的脸盘很大,带着近视眼镜,穿着淡绿色的裙子,梳着长长的辫子,脸上有种塔罗牌算命师的古灵精怪。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我正在学习风水,非常有趣。”她说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“风水在这里很流行吗?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“吉尔吉斯人相信风水。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我们交谈时,阿谢丽的丈夫始终赞许地望着妻子。他叫安德烈,是一个光头壮汉,穿着绿格子衬衫。阿谢丽说,安德烈是莫斯科人,但他们住在比什凯克。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"出乎我意料的是,他们的儿子完全没有混血特征,而是百分之百的亚洲脸。和阿谢丽一样,他的视力不佳,总是眯着眼睛,睨视一切。他穿着一件印有日文的T恤。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们的儿子正在学习日语,”阿谢丽告诉我。安德烈赞许地望向儿子。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我仔细看了看那件T恤,上面写着“人间失格”,意为“失去做人的资格”。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"居然有这样的T恤,我心想。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"一个醉醺醺的吉尔吉斯人走过来,热情洋溢地和安德烈寒暄起来。当他听说我是中国人后,马上说他儿子上周刚从北京..回来,“充满了美好印象”。他不停地与我和安德烈握手,因为酒醉而吐字不清。等他走了,安德烈告诉我,这人是他们在街上雇的司机,明天送他们回比什凯克。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们不知道他是酒鬼。”阿谢丽沉着脸说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“这个..。”安德烈附和地摇头。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"阿谢丽问我:“你打算什么时候离开?”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“也是明天。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“我们可以一走,分摊车费。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"“没问题。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"阿谢丽笑了。一个女巫般的笑容。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"晚上,我去礼堂看了一场演出。阿谢丽一家也在,但我没有惊动他们。演出开始后,先是四个穿着长裙的俄国大妈合唱。接着,幕布抖动着合上。再打开时,布景变成了街心公园。一群苏联打扮的青年男女坐在树下,有的看书,有的喝酒,有的抱着吉他。他们素不相识,但看起来都是单身——这是他们来公园的原因。抱吉他的青年坐到看书姑娘对面,拨弄琴弦,唱起歌来。看书姑娘显得很生气,用歌声回敬对方。接着,围观群众纷纷加入唱歌的行列,连醉汉也手舞足蹈。礼堂里,很多观众小声跟唱着,仿佛时光斗转,一如当年——这些歌曲都是苏联时代的老歌。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我走出礼堂时,夜色中的疗养院像被石灰洗过一样白花花的。公寓楼前的松树下,竟然真有一群男女在喝酒弹琴,唱着老歌,仿佛就是演出的翻版。我感到,这家疗养院的一切都定格在了苏联时代,在平行世界中兀自运行不止。 ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"第二天午后,我和塔罗牌夫妇一起返回比什凯克。司机是清醒的,但安德烈买了啤酒。夫妇两人在车里你一口我一口地喝着,而“人间失格”的儿子愤世嫉俗地望着窗外。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"路上,阿谢丽说,她开了一家店铺,卖一些“具有宇宙生命能量”的首饰。她极力要我关注这家店铺的社交账户,因为她说,“我们不想失去你”。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我问他们为什么来这里度假。阿谢丽说,他们本想去海南,但那里过于昂贵,所以才来这里。“如果我是你,我会去海南,而不是这里。”阿谢丽说。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"    ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"窗外突然下起大雨,雨和雾弥漫在楚河河谷,需要关上车窗以抵挡寒气。我们经过荒凉的托克马克,小餐馆和汽修行显得十分破败。在离比什凯克还有一段距离的地方,塔罗牌夫妇要求下车。路边一无所有,只有破烂的棚户房和疯长的杂草。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"阿谢丽说:“我们就住在这里。”","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"安德烈赞许地点点头。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"他们的儿子眯着眼,睨视着我。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"\t","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我们握了握手,然后他们消失在比什凯克郊外的雨中。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n"],[20,"—— 完 ——","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\n"],[20,"题图为疗养院里的演出,唱的都是苏联歌曲。本文图片,均为作者拍摄。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"相关阅读:在夏日的雅尔塔散步","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"]]"> [好文分享:www.11jj.com]

自媒体 微信号:11jj 扫描二维码关注公众号
爱八卦,爱爆料。

小编推荐

  1. 1

    内江公需科目继续教育登录入口官网(内江市公需科目考试网)

    大家好,小美今天来为大家解答内江公需科目继续教育登录入口官网以下问题,内江市公需科目考试网很多人还不知道,现在让我们一起来看看吧!

  2. 2

    第四门八门遁甲(八门遁甲第四门叫什么)

    大家好,小乐今天来为大家解答第四门八门遁甲以下问题,八门遁甲第四门叫什么很多人还不知道,现在让我们一起来看看吧!1、八门遁甲中的第四

  3. 3

    毫无底线,永久封禁!8人全部获刑

    为了流量,毫无底线编造“怙恃双亡”人设骗取网友同情和爱心卖的居然照样假货……近日拥有近400万粉丝的主播“凉山孟阳”及其团伙等8人均获刑

  4. 4

    左边绿右边红左右相遇起凉风打一字(左边绿,右边红相遇起凉风,(打一字))

    大家好,小丽今天来为大家解答左边绿右边红左右相遇起凉风打一字以下问题,左边绿,右边红相遇起凉风,(打一字)很多人还不知道,现在让我们一起

  5. 5

    提高语文成绩的办法有哪些(提高语文成绩具体措施)

    大家好,小美今天来为大家解答提高语文成绩的办法有哪些以下问题,提高语文成绩具体措施很多人还不知道,现在让我们一起来看看吧!1、快速提

  6. 6

    葡语还在让你心累 ?

  7. 7

    女生网名可爱超萌清新2字(网名2021最新版的女生可爱2字)

    大家好,小豪今天来为大家解答女生网名可爱超萌清新2字以下问题,网名2021最新版的女生可爱2字很多人还不知道,现在让我们一起来看看吧!1、漠

  8. 8

    常识积累:刑法之自首

    小伙伴们,下昼好今天给人人带来的常识相关考点是【刑法之自首】供人人储蓄进修一、概念。  自首是指犯罪后主动投案,向公安、司法机关或

Copyright 2024.依依自媒体,让大家了解更多图文资讯!