六月｜《环球美味》华贵享受

六月，迎来热烈的夏天。 [原创文章：www.11jj.com]

  [原创文章：www.11jj.com]

《环球美味》始终在这里，为大家带来丝丝清凉与慰藉。

卷首语Editor’s Note

“酒店服务：做或不做？”"Hospitality Service Excellence: To Be or Not to Be"

——徐正刚Ricky Xu

“非品牌的产品”通常代表的是性价比高，没有品牌效应或市场包装的产品。这种自明之理贯穿于我们日常生活的方方面面，无论是服装、鞋子、配饰和日常用品。相比于花费了大量市场..或包装成本的产品，本土制造或生产的产品明显更具有性价比。

对于药品，非专利药和替代与补充性药品常常会提供一个可以负担或相对合理的解决方案，尤其是有越来越多的证据证明，全球的巨头制药公司一直都在高价售卖其专利处方药。最有代表性的例子就是达拉匹林，只是为了几个公司高层的意愿，其价格就可以从 13.50 美元上升到 750 美元。

但是，，从“非品牌产品”中获利却不太适用于服务行业，尤其是酒店业。因为现在，很多企业的金融策略总会站在服务的对立面，从而缺失了服务的真正意义，就是与被服务的人保持心灵联通。

随着全球的酒店数量不断增加，“非品牌酒店服务”似乎找到了更多落脚之地，尤其是越来越多的企业为了追求短期投资回报率，不惜一切代价，包括牺牲最根本的酒店服务理念。

而且，随着很多酒店品牌不断被并购或收购，酒店的服务精神也逐渐被淹没。在“市场细分”的时代，大部分的国际酒店品牌都会逐渐变成由很多子品牌组成的集合体，能够覆盖所有的市场分层，包括奢华五、四、三和两，或许连酒店的经营者也很难为自己找到合适的定义。这让人想起了牙膏品牌的分层，所有竞争的品牌似乎都来自同一家制造商或供应商。

如今，很多地产开发商，相比品牌管理者，或许更具有经营主导权，经理们回归到办公室，时刻关注着电子屏幕上的关于影响财务报表的任何“预警”。毫无疑问，仅靠公关或口舌之力换来的业绩可以轻松取代真诚而独特的服务。

在酒店行业，总经理转遍酒店的每个楼层，亲自欢迎入住的客人或与他们交流互动，了解他们的需求，并让他们真正感到心满意足，这曾是致胜的关键，但如今的现状不免有些令人失望。

同样，对于一名酒店总经理而言，15 至 20 年的工作经验要求似乎也可以做出让步，取而代之的是快速，迅速上岗的新人，即便没有长期的实战管理经验。

培养和投资人才，将永远是发展专业酒店人的重中之重。因为专业的酒店精神建立在人服务于人的艺术之上。在今天的市场，投资回报率更应该专注于对人的长线投资。毕竟，人才是酒店服务价值的核心，更要靠人去实现品牌的承诺。

"Generics" have traditionally represented good value for those not lured by brands with their patented "frills" and superfluous "poppycock". This truism applies to many aspects of our daily lives, whether in the choice of clothing, footwear, accessories, or even groceries wherein locally

made and produced items come closer to defining value for money as compared to the mark-up signature price tags padded with marketing and packaging costs.

In the field of medicine, generic drugs and "CAM" (complementary-alternative medicine) often offer a far more affordable and reasonable option, especially in light of the growing evidence that global giant Pharma"s have conspired for generations to overcharge for their patented prescriptions. A case in point would be the Daraprim drug which price escalated from US$13.50 to US$750 just by the whims of one or a few company executives.

However, the benefits generally associated with the use of generics rarely translates to the field of service, particularly hospitality; for today"s corporate financial strategy often represents the antithesis of Hospitality Service Excellence that is supposed to connect with the hearts, minds, and Souls of those being served.

Yet with the growing number of hotels worldwide, "generic hospitality services" has found a new home with many of the property developers whose priority is short term (ST) ROI pursued at the expense of everything else, relegating genuine hospitality service to the back seat.

Further, in the advent of increasing mergers and acquisitions of global hotel brands by and among multi-national and public listed companies, the spirit of hospitality service, being abstract and intangible, is often swept under the rug. In this era of "segmentation", most of the global hotel brands have each become a collection of sub-brands by design to cover all tiers, from luxury 5-Stars to 4, 3, and 2-stars, which hoteliers themselves find it hard to define. This brings to mind the stratification of toothpaste brands wherein seemingly competitive brands are but in fact from the same producer/supplier.

Today, the primary focus of many owners and their representatives on ST-ROI has redirected many hotel managers to their back-of-house desktops, glued to every "blip" appearing on their computer screens affecting the financial spreadsheets. Needless to say, this practice easily replaces the provision of genuine, distinct guest experience with mere "PR" stunts or "lip service".

The winning yet sadly disappearing trait in today"s hospitality scene was when hotel general managers (GM) would walk every hotel floor every day, welcoming and shaking hands with the guests, feeling their expectations, understanding their needs, and making each guest feel special and satisfied.

Also, the requirment of 15 to 20 years training and experience for one to become a hotel GM has given way to instant grooming and job placement of unseasoned, unpolished executives, short of managing by trial and error.

The wisdom of investing in people through training and incentives will forever be the critical choice to develop professional hoteliers; for Hospitality Service Excellence is founded upon the fine art of people serving other people. And in this market arena, ROI should rather be taken as the long-term (LT) return of investment in people. After all, aren"t people supposed to occupy the core of hospitality service, in defining its brand values and as well delivering its brand promise?

——徐正刚Ricky Xu

佐餐调味Herbs & Spices

香料在烹饪中是不可或缺的存在，往往在菜肴中加入一点点就可画龙点睛，起到提升整道食物风味的作用。本期为大家科普“香料皇后——香子兰”的前世今生。

今月人物Luminaries

本月，我们有幸采访到了TRB的创始人Ignace Lecleir先生， 向他请教不断扩张的TRB美食版图背后的心路历程及阐释作为外国人的“中国梦”。

餐饮行Destination Dining

美味君走访了黑天鹅法餐厅、羊大妈街边涮肉、上海万达瑞华酒店及浙江西子宾馆等，感悟各大酒店及餐厅的美味之道。

旅游故事Travelogue

避开越南的胡志明市、西贡、芽庄等热门景点，美味君独辟蹊径踏足越南古镇会安，并下榻于会安四季酒店，开启美食、美景之旅。

主题故事Feature Story

自古以来，来自异域的稀有产品似乎总是皇室贵族的专享。但是，科技的进步、农耕的现代化、产业化的发展和物流的高速发达，已经让这些曾经难以企及的奢侈享味走进现代人的生活，比如集众人宠爱的巧克力、味道丰富的奶酪、咸鲜可口的鱼子酱以及被赋予身份象征的雪茄。

醇饮Drinks

美食旅程上必然少不了美酒佳酿的陪伴。本期特别为大家带来适宜与猪肉菜肴搭配的美酒以及探索独特的Sato葡萄酒。

更多精彩内容，欢迎订阅六月刊一探究竟。

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