正午视觉 | 我在北极点，一个小小的点

一个生理和心理综合感受的缓释胶囊。满目荒凉单调的航行强化了某种体验，没有网络，没有黑夜，身居斗室，只有冰原和碎冰滚动播放，以及北极风吹在身体上的物理记忆。一个绝对极端的地理环境，像是某种修行。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"微信导语：北极点之旅“后劲”比较大，是一个生理和心理综合感受的缓释胶囊。满目荒凉单调的航行强化了某种体验，像是某种修行。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"微信摘要：一个绝对极端的地理环境，像是某种修行。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/qWyzxLRRTX4Mcpr2/06.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"611px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"999\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/bSxXoxkaNkAc8i45/title.jpg!thumbnail"},"29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"349px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"571\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n\n\n"],[20,"我在北极点，一个小小的点","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,"图、文 | 王轶庶","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"北纬90度的北极点是个很小的点，小到破冰船驾驶舱已经到达北极点，船尾甲板上还没到。在高精度的GPS仪器帮助下，巨大的核动力破冰船寻找北极点是一个缓慢谨慎精巧的操作，感觉像塔吊准确地吊起一个篮子那种难度。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"就为了这个小小的点，巨大的俄罗斯核动力破冰船“50年胜利号”从北纬69度俄罗斯摩尔曼斯克港出发，一路向北，经法兰克约瑟夫地群岛，历时五天后到达北极点，此行需要向北跨过21个纬度，地球每一个纬度约111公里，当然航线并不是一路笔直向北，据说往返全程大约消耗掉500克核燃料。这是人类乘坐破冰船的第136次到达北极点，迄今总共约有25000人次到达过北极点。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"我是作为“开眼极之美”北极探险队的一员去北极点的，这一趟行程并没有什么险，是比较成熟的旅游产品。出发前我就知道这将是一场冰海的邮轮之旅，甚至想到了可能的枯燥。行程中有一半的航行是在破冰，满目白晃晃的冰原，极昼的季节连光线变化都不多，核动力船马力强劲，非常平稳，船舱温暖干燥，平均时速20到30公里。没有网络。当然会有令人兴奋的北极熊和海象以及各种海鸟出现。更多的时候我每天无事可做，就在甲板上晃悠，低头看着像掰饼干一样轻松的破冰过程，我反复端详冰的各种形状体积明暗和质感，乐此不疲。地理上极端的地方和很多事情也很像吧，除了那一刹那的灿烂顶点，大多是冗长的荒凉和单调。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"回国后我发现到北极点之旅“后劲”比较大，是一个生理和心理综合感受的缓释胶囊。 在我的旅行体验中，没有哪次像北极一样反复萦绕，包括仅五个小时的时差我倒了足足半个月，我意识到这个满目荒凉单调的航行强化了某种体验，没有网络，没有黑夜，身居斗室，只有冰原和碎冰滚动播放，以及北极风吹在身体上的物理记忆，一个绝对极端的地理环境，像是某种修行。回来才反应过来，有些机缘就像和那头浮冰上的北极熊的邂逅一样离奇，回国很多天后，想起那个“睡过站”的熊，不能释怀，在微博上发了九张图并写了段感受，几天转发竟达到五万多次以及三千多万阅读，匪夷所思，大概有些体验确有离奇的传染性。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/JtmwUa7jcnwkrl7m/90_1_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"坐在船载直升机上看核动力破冰船和破冰过程","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/Rk2UavsoVN0yt0Jx/90_2_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"在冰海上的露天烧烤","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/iO9EMxd5tIAQ1lal/90_3_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"小小的北极点附近，小小的人类","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/QG0uHDGVId0G2IPV/90_4_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"北极点附近持抢警戒的工作人员，主要是为了防范北极熊，尽管北极熊几乎不可能来到荒凉的极点附近","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/5bHkqayVeNIVpokH/90_5_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"法兰士约瑟夫岛的冰川附近除了我们的登陆艇，莫名其妙地出现了一艘帆船，气氛变得有些奇异和复古","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/ezT0gw2lOwokYYpm/90_6_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"远处看雾中的50年胜利号核动力破冰船","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/pFMl5mx2g58HUpRn/90_7_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"这一程看够了冰的各种形态","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/waZ6YgJXnMgAwLmp/90_8_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"制做露天烧烤的船方工作人员","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/o9OCyMWG4wMY33YI/90_9_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"冰海上多雾，驶向北极点的航线上每一幕都在提醒，这里远非熟悉的人类世界","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/R8tQKhXezskwUaUi/90_10_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"法兰士约瑟夫地群岛上的奇异石球，像一个颅骨，此行我经常有身处科幻电影的感觉","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/XZphDYQ8ZsMIG9ad/90_11_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"核动力破冰船内部的蒸汽动力机组，核反应堆部分不允许参观","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/EP4EIOXs8fUbQWdT/90_12_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"台上的仪表显示刚到北纬90.00.00N北极点，台下的表还在北纬89.59.999上","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/O9vWnIiJQK4LLueF/90_13_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"法兰士约瑟夫地的一个科考站，破冰船登陆时也给他们带来了燃料等补给品","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/I2yhNqlglPES5e5X/90_14_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"北冰洋的海水会在光线变化下呈现不同颜色和质地，有时看上去像汤一样浓郁","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/D7Nfj9s1Ps4aSsY5/90_15_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"大雾中破冰行进，今年北极冰比往年都厚，即使动力强大的核动力破冰船也需绕开冰脊谨慎操作，操作员需要用望远镜仔细分辨","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/o3Xjk5wIY3s5TY2Z/90_16_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"驾驶室的窗外","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/dYndbbtd0OAVlDmr/90_17_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"一个年青的船员","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/TUcAmAKHnBwVETdR/90_18_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"船长室的航海地图","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/RKBvTPlbKOMxeiBd/90_19_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"我的船舱里，放着BBC北极点的纪录片","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/GxGahEDZqGIfeiCb/90_20_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"船员餐厅，船员们在聊天","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/rWY4nXm5VL0tyRGT/WechatIMG672.jpeg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1080\"|ori-width:\"1619\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"在北极点附近，我和这艘黑红巨兽合了个影","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/VygIszarMzk3g8cc/90_21_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"贴着海面飞行的暴雪鹱和自身的倒影。北极很多鸟都喜欢跟随破冰船行进，因为船搅动海水意味着食物","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/EUnYS0dTWnsukLca/90_22_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"408px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"667\"|ori-width:\"1000\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"法兰士约瑟夫地群岛努米尼岩上的厚嘴海鸦，长得有点像企鹅但飞行敏捷","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/9tQnhJnEpTIwcPUl/90_23_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"915px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"669\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"冰川上一些巨大的黑色方石","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/FSPmCDV62t8ZzNTF/90_24_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,{"gallery":"http://images-cdn.shimo.im/r3YKu0NaiLAvXEiZ/90_25_25_.jpg!thumbnail"},"27:\"12\"|29:0|30:0|3:\"612px\"|4:\"918px\"|crop:\"\"|frame:\"none\"|ori-height:\"1000\"|ori-width:\"667\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"这两张图，就是微博上被热转的那个帖：破冰船轻声靠近时它还在团在冰上睡觉，整个视野的海面上就这么一块冰一只熊，像寓言一样。一船人安静地看了几分钟，它突然就醒了，看到眼前这个巨大的核动力破冰船楞了好半天，打了个滚，趴在冰上观察我们，在空气中闻个不停，探头探脑，充分评估对方，然后就攀附着冰准备下水逃跑。大雾又起来了，船也转向离开，雾里看到它还在扒在冰壁上琢磨怎么下水。后来船上的极地专家们讨论，幸亏是把它惊醒了，因为冰是在往南漂，再漂到孤立无援的巴伦支大海里就可能是绝路，它现在醒了赶紧往回游一个多小时才能回到法兰士约瑟夫岛。回到船舱，我想着这一幕很久都还感动不已，尽管这不算好的摄影。","0:\"%23333333\"|27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n\n"],[20,"—— 完 ——","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n"],[20,"王轶庶，知名摄影师。其作品在国内外广泛展出和报道，曾出版《可能》《Borderless》个人作品集，部分作品收藏于美国旧金山现代艺术博物馆(SFMOMA)。","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n\n"],[20," ","27:\"12\""],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"相关阅读：","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n\n","7:1"],[20,"穿行安娜普尔纳的群山","27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\n\n"],[20,"（此处插入尾图）","0:\"%23ff0000\"|27:\"12\"|8:1"],[20,"\n","7:1"],[20,"\n\n"]]"> [本文来自：www.11jj.com]